Sewing · Tilly and the Buttons

A Cleo Perfect for Spring

Yes I’ve made another Cleo. This is my third and it most likely won’t be my last!

I’ve made a few small fitting adjustments to this one. Although I have a large bust my frame isn’t. I found with the other Cleos that the front was gaping and didn’t sit flat. I really wanted to try and get the fit right but not cut too narrow that it cuts awkwardly over the bust.

With the straps unfastened their natural placement was an inch in from the fastenings off the bodice. I transferred the new positioning onto the pattern piece.

The bodice was also gaping along the sides so from the top I took the bodice in. To keep the bodice wide enough so that it didn’t cut awkwardly on the bust I only graded in the pattern piece from the top to level with the bottom of the pocket.

I also wanted to lower the side seams as I felt they were a little high with a large bust. I lowered them by 2inches.


If altering pattern pieces remember to do this on the front and back pieces and also redraw the facing pieces.

As the fabric is very pale I wanted to add something a little different so I made the pocket heart shaped. I had followed the Crafty Pin Ups tutorial for the Coco dress heart pockets and decided to do something similar with the Cleo. Here’s a quick step by step.

First cut out the large pocket template and fold in half. Draw half a heart going right to the edges.

Cut out the heart paper template and two fabric hearts. I used a different fabric for the lining.

Sew together right sides together leaving a 2 inch gap. Trim the seam allowances with pinking shears and turn right way out. Iron.

To keep with the top stitching look sew around the whole heart using a 1cm allowance.

To attach the heart line up between the pocket points. To stitch the pocket on I started stitching in line with the inverted point at the top of heart shape. Stitch around to the other side using a 2-3mm allowance.

Ta dah a heart pocket.

Due to squeeeeezing out the Cleo using a meter of fabric the straps are shorter than the template. The straps were quite long on me anyway so this really didn’t make much difference.

To speed up the strap turning out process I made them differently to the instructions. Here’s what I did.

Turn in the straight end by 0.5cm and iron, wrong sides together, Fold each side over by 1.5cm, wrong sides together, and iron. Then fold in half and iron again. Lots of folding and ironing but it’s so much quicker! Top stitch 2-3mm around the strap on all sides.

I didn’t have enough fabric for the facings so I used some Liberty cord I had left over. I also used this for the pocket lining.

This Cleo is perfect for spring and I’m really pleased I made the small fitting adjustments.

posing in the park

Cleo pattern by Tilly and the Buttons

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5 thoughts on “A Cleo Perfect for Spring

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