Sew… My first make from Tilly’s new Stretch book is the Stella hoodie. I love lounging around lazy day clothes and my me made wardrobe is definitely lacking them. When I saw the Stella I knew I needed one. I prefer my hoodies with zip especially as that means I can wear them with my new Milas.
I’ve never hacked a pattern from scratch before. Nor have I ever sewn an open ended zip or a hooded top. No pressure right!
The construction seemed pretty straight forward so I was hopeful that I could pull it off. I’ll try and explain what I did but as always I get so into my sewing I forget to take step by step photographs. I did take a few so I’ll do my best with words instead.
The only pattern piece that needs altering is the front bodice piece. This is cut on the fold but obviously you don’t want to do this so instead add on the seam allowance and cut two. I also decided to add on the pocket which Tilly has added as a hack in the book. This pieces also need the seam allowance adding and two cutting rather than one on the fold.
Add one 1.5cm to the centre front pieces.
I then made up the hood as instructed but didn’t attach it. Next I stitched the shoulder seams, added the sleeves, stitched the side seams and added the cuffs. I finished all my seams on the overlocker. I know you don’t need to but I do like it to look neat on the insides.
My first attempt at visible mending as somehow I managed to get a hole in the hood.
When adding the hood the front bodice piece will be 1.5cm longer on each side. This is fine as you need this for when you add the zip.
Add the pockets. I used a RTW hoodie to line up where I wanted them positioned.
I finished the front bodice edges. Again this is a personal preference.
Open up the zip so you have two pieces. Now for some waffling rambling to explain the zip.
With the hoodie right sides out place the zip right side down and stitch into the seam allowance. Do this for both sides of the zip.
Fold under so that the zip is in the correct position from the right side. Top stitch along the edge.
When your nails unintentionally match.
Again because I like a neat finish I finished the inside of the zip edges with bias binding. This also encases the top end of the zipper tape. The bottom end will be encased in the hem.
Hem and ta dah you have made a zip up hooded top!
So I hope that made sense. It really is easy to do so you should definitely give it a go. Now all I need to is make the joggers and I can lounge around is pure comfort.
Have you made the Stella hoodie yet?
Excuse the awful photos, I was in the early stages of the worst cold I have ever had!
Added 17/10/2020 – unfortunately this didn’t make it past the first wash as the fabric really bobbled.