Sew… let’s all ignore the fact that it’s been 14 months since I last posted and just jump straight back in.
I’ve decided to focus my blogs on the alterations I’ve made to patterns and how I finished the garment. First up we have…
Pattern: Helens Closet Yanta Overalls.
Measurements: High bust 40.5″, full bust 44.5″, waist 34″, hips 44.5″.
Height: 5’3″.
Fabric: Chambray (I think) purchased a couple of years ago from Fabworks.
Alterations: So I made a lot of alterations but it’s not as drastic as it sounds and was all about getting the fit I wanted. Helens guidance on fit in the instruction booklet is amazing. It tells you exactly how they should fit and what to do if you have big boobs (hands up!!). Helen also provides lots of finished measurement sizes which is super helpful. There is option for a side zip which I didn’t add as I can do a little wiggle to get into them.
Starting at the top I graded from a size 10 at the bib, I have narrow shoulders so I measured where the straps would sit and using this measurement I went with the finished bib size, to a 12 at the waist and then to a 16 at the hips. For the dart I went with a 14 which is in the middle of the 12 and 16.
I then lengthened the bib at the top “lengthen/shorten” line by 3 inches. This is basically the FBA as it adds length over your boobs.
I decided to shorten the pattern by 4 inch. It’s drafted for someone 3 inch taller than me and I also wanted a shorter leg length so that I could turn up the hems. To evenly distribute the amount I wanted to remove I took out 2 inch at the hip “lengthen/shorted” line and 2 inch on the leg “lengthen/shorten” line. Always make sure you are leaving enough room so you can sit down comfortably!
Don’t forget to transfer any changes onto the back piece and facings. You don’t need to add the FBA adjustment to the back piece.
Finish: I overlocked my seams and where these would be on show when turning up the hems I added matching bias binding.
I went a bit top stitch crazy as I love topstitching and think it really finishes the overalls especially as they have a denim look to them. As the fabric has a very small red polka dot I went for red stitching and buttons.
FutureChanges: I don’t think I will add the two small front pockets and would raise the back pockets by about an inch.
Verdict: Love them. Will be making more but as these are super perfect (in my opinion) and we will wearable during the colder months I might wait and make a colourful floral pair for spring/summer next year.
Special Mentions: Huge thanks to Sarah of Sarah Diane Creative for helping me with the pattern alterations. These were originally a wearable toile but they are so much more than that!
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