Pattern: Sew Over It Vintage Shirt Dress
Measurements: High Bust 40.5”, Full Bust 44.5”, Waist 34”, hips 44.5”.
Alterations: For some reason I did a 2.5” FBA rather than a 2” one, who knows why!
This has created a new bust dart.
The FBA also adds width into the waist seam which needs to be reduced back to the original size, normally in a dart, but instead of a dart I made two waist tucks to match with the one already on the pattern, three in total. I was lucky that the excess equalled the same size as two tucks. If you are doing an FBA smaller or bigger than 2.5” you will need to add the size of the tuck to the excess and divide by how many tucks you want to make and mark them evenly onto the pattern.
I left a gap of ½” between each tuck so it goes: side seam to first tuck – 1” tuck – ½” gap – 1” tuck – ½” gap – 1” tuck – third tuck to centre seam.
When I made my toile the sleeves were quite tight, I had heard this about Sew Over It patterns. I needed about an inch of ease added at the hem so I slashed the sleeve pattern piece in three places and added the inch evenly. This is such an easy adjustment to make and can be used on any sleeve. The more you add the fluttery the sleeve becomes.
Finish: French seams for the sleeves and over locked the rest. When it came to hemming I decided to use my blind hem foot which I have never used before and Oh My God its bloody fantastic! So easy to use and gives an amazing more or less invisible finish. I would definitely recommend giving this ago when you don’t want visible hem stitching. You will need matching thread.
I also added a lot more buttons than suggested, 3 on bodice and 5 on the skirt. I used 5 on the bodice and 7 on the skirt. Having a large bust I definitely need more than 3 buttons!
Future Changes: I had to overlap the button placket more than recommend so next time I will take off ½” from the centre seam on the bodice, skirt and facing pieces. I think the excess over lapping has caused the placket to sit funny over the waist seem, it definitely isn’t pulling, so for this dress I am going to add an invisible popper to keep it sitting flat.
Special Mentions: Huge shout out to Adornments by Rosheen for making me the most fantastic head band which matches perfectly. I asked for a dark green and didn’t even show Rosheen my fabric and it couldn’t have been more perfect. Definitely check out her Etsy shop for ready to purchase hair accessories and you can also contact her for custom orders. I’ve already got three lots of fabric from my summer dresses that she’s going to turn into matching headbands for me!