Pattern: Helens Closet York Pinafore
Measurements: High Bust 40.5”, Full Bust 44.5”, Waist 34”, hips 44.5”.
Alterations: Helens guidance on fit in the instruction booklet is amazing. It tells you exactly how they should fit and what to do if you have big boobs (hands up!).
Starting at the top I graded from a Medium at the shoulders to a Large at the waist. As I have narrow shoulders I measured where the straps would sit on me and using this measurement I measured the pattern pieces and picked the size which would mean there was no gaping.
I lengthened the upper bodice at the top “lengthen/shorten” line by 3 inch. This is the measurement suggested by Helen for the equivalent to an FBA.
From the waist to the hem I cut a Large and made the shorter length version, view B.
I followed Helens hack for the button up version which you can find here.
Finish: I overlocked all seams and finished the neck and arm holes with bias binding. I also added Kylie and the Machine labels from Sew Me Sunshine.
I didn’t add pockets but like the idea of small patch pockets and have some left over fabric so think I will add these.
Future Changes: There are two different necklines on the pattern. On my wearable toile version I did the high neckline but found it a bit too high and not very flattering on me so on this version I did the lower neckline but due to doing the FBA alteration the lower neckline was even lower as it moved with the alteration.
I decided to alter the wearable toile and have raised the neckline on the front pattern piece by 2 inch and I much prefer this neckline on me so this will be my preferred neckline going forward.
After sewing all 10 buttonholes, which is very scary, and buttons I can actually get it on and off over my head so will definitely check any future button up hacks before making all the buttonholes and just sew the buttons straight on instead!
Special Mentions: Thanks to Sarah Diane Creative for helping me work out the grading/fit.