Sew… I thought I would share with you how I’ve altered the Stellan tee to avoid doing an FBA.
Pattern: French Navy Patterns – Stellan Tee, a free pattern.Described as having a boxy slightly cropped fit with proportionally long sleeves and a slightly curved hemline.
Measurements: Hight Bust 40.5”, Full Bust 44.5”, Waist 34”, Hips 44.5”.
Fabric: Various jerseys.
Alterations: To avoid doing an FBA, I didn’t want a dart, I did a lot of grading but it was definitely worth it and I don’t ever need another tee pattern in my sewing life as this one is great!
Starting with the front bodice I graded from a SMALL at the neck centre front to a MEDIUM at the shoulder. I did this as I don’t like a really high necklines on me. I continued at a MEDIUM grading out to XXL from armscye notch down to the hem.
For the back bodice the neck and shoulders is a MEDIUM and I graded out to an XL at the armscye notch I continued with XL side seams and lengthen to XXL at the hem to match the front bodice.
The sleeves are a MEDIUM at the head grading to XXL at the front and XL at the back from the notches. I found the sleeves quite long so if keeping with the original hem length I roll this three times for a mock cuff or shorten by 2 inch and them hem for a plain finish.
Always check everything matches up after grading and definitely make a toile/wearable toile just encase something has gone a bit wonky.
Finish: I whizz these straight up on the over locker as the seam allowance is ¼ inch. Always do the back neck reinforcement as it give such a neat and professional finish. The neckband also means it sits really nicely. I cut the neckband at size MEDIUM and it has always been the right length but this may depend on how stretchy your fabric is.
Future Changes: None that I can think of. Maybe ill straighten the hem and see how that comes out.
Would definitely recommend this tee pattern.