Sewing

French Navy – Stellan Tee

Sew… I thought I would share with you how I’ve altered the Stellan tee to avoid doing an FBA.

Pattern: French Navy Patterns – Stellan Tee, a free pattern.Described as having a boxy slightly cropped fit with proportionally long sleeves and a slightly curved hemline.

Measurements: Hight Bust 40.5”, Full Bust 44.5”, Waist 34”, Hips 44.5”.

 

Fabric: Various jerseys.

 

Alterations: To avoid doing an FBA, I didn’t want a dart, I did a lot of grading but it was definitely worth it and I don’t ever need another tee pattern in my sewing life as this one is great!

Starting with the front bodice I graded from a SMALL at the neck centre front to a MEDIUM at the shoulder. I did this as I don’t like a really high necklines on me. I continued at a MEDIUM grading out to XXL from armscye notch down to the hem.

Front bodice.

For the back bodice the neck and shoulders is a MEDIUM and I graded out to an XL at the armscye notch I continued with XL side seams and lengthen to XXL at the hem to match the front bodice.

Back bodice.

The sleeves are a MEDIUM at the head grading to XXL at the front and XL at the back from the notches. I found the sleeves quite long so if keeping with the original hem length I roll this three times for a mock cuff or shorten by 2 inch and them hem for a plain finish.

Sleeve.

Always check everything matches up after grading and definitely make a toile/wearable toile just encase something has gone a bit wonky.

Finish: I whizz these straight up on the over locker as the seam allowance is ¼ inch. Always do the back neck reinforcement as it give such a neat and professional finish. The neckband also means it sits really nicely. I cut the neckband at size MEDIUM and it has always been the right length but this may depend on how stretchy your fabric is.

 

So much better with the neck reinforcement.

Future Changes: None that I can think of. Maybe ill straighten the hem and see how that comes out.

Would definitely recommend this tee pattern.

Original length sleeves with no shortening. Viscose jersey crepe.
Sleeve hem rolled three times to make a faux cuff look.
Shortened sleeves and tucked in.

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